Round Britain Voyage Review with BBC Radio Solent

As we came ashore we were met by a BBC Radio Solent Reporter.

Here is a link to our youtube account with the Radio Report and all our other videos

Link to Take Tow Ribs You Tube

DAY TWENTY-SEVEN - BRIGHTON TO SOUTHAMPTON

Finally it had arrived - the final day of our journey and the last leg - home!   The previous night in Brighton we had all thought long and hard about what we were going to face - conditions around Beachy Head had reminded us all of how tough things could get, and the forecast we had for the final day was worse, a good Force 5-6  and strengthening.  If we were going to do it, the only time to go was first thing.  We had to be away by 7.00am, so we set the alarms for 5.15am and spent a very restless night, waking at regular intervals to hear the wind howling and the masts rattling in the marina below the hotel.   We weren't home and dry yet by a long shot, and there was the doubt in everyone's minds as to whether we would be able to the leave the marina at all.  Whilst wanting to get home, we had to be careful not to make hasty decisions - the temptation of course to make a run for it come what may.  We all met on the marina in the dark, and decided that we would make our way out of the Harbour and take a look, and if conditions were just not sensible or anyone was feeling unsure we would turn around and come back.  Stowing the boats in the dark, with the wind whistling around our ears and the masts of hundreds of yachts comfortably settled into the marina dancing a jig accompanied by the ghastly music of their own clanking, I don't think I was the only one wondering if we weren't completely mad to be leaving this safe haven and heading out for what was guaranteed at the very best to be a punishing journey.  One consoling sight in the darkness was the navigation lights of a local fishing boat passing us - a ghostly outline in the dark heading determinedly out of harbour, the put-putting of its engine completely drowned out by the valkyrie scream of the wind.  It was heartening to think we weren't the only ones!
As we made our way towards the harbour entrance, I could see great plumes of spray blasting up over the sea wall from outside, and then as we rounded the corner to the sea, there was no doubt that if the tame tiger of a sea had begun growling yesterday, she had definitely had her tail pulled this morning!  Big waves were throwing themselves at the sea wall in a determined and sustained tantrum, and as the first onslaught hit us, I really wondered if this time we really hadn't taken on more than we could handle.  There was no gentle build up or time to get into the groove, it was literally off the mooring and out to do full battle.
Anthony reminded me that the waters around the harbour entrance were going to be worse than elsewhere, and after recovering from the initial shock of meeting such a combative sea in near darkness, we settled into our grim task of dealing with the test she was setting us.  The waves were a challenging mixture, with the occasional breaking wave and a good number of giants which suspended "ConTTentment" on the vertical in a heart-stopping moment before relenting and letting her go.   Helming in these conditions is physically and mentally shattering, and I was so grateful after nearly an hour of fighting for every foot of my passage home, to hand over to Charlie Fane-Trefusis and Anthony and ride it out on the back seat. 
Conditions improved only marginally, before building up again as we passed Selsey Bill, where again the shallow waters meant the seas were even more confused and the waves bigger.   The three-way rotation of helming and working on the throttle was really effective allowing us to conserve our energy and I was so grateful that we had extra pairs of hands on these last few legs, when we were already tired but conditions were as demanding as we had encountered anywhere during the trip.
We were now very much in familiar territory and I could feel the excitement mounting as the Isle of Wight came into view, and in the slightly more protected waters between the Island and the mainland we were able to finally pick up speed, as well as free up a hand for a hot drink and our well earned picnic breakfast!

We're coming home!  Heading up Southampton Water after doing battle
from Brighton

I felt the prickle of tears and a lump in my throat as we came nearer to the Itchen River, the starting point of our journey, and my only regret was that my parents whose early morning emails of support and encouragement had become a much needed daily "fix", weren't with me to share this wonderful moment of homecoming.  Jeff Bartram, a previous crewman for "Teal", had made the huge effort of launching his own RIB at Chichester early in the morning, and appeared to chaperone us in, which made a wonderful start to our welcome home.
Having broadcast our arrival time as 2.30pm, we moored up at Shamrock Quay, just around the corner from the Southampton Dry Stack, our final destination, to dry out, regroup, and sit it out until we could round the corner at the scheduled time.   Again, the tears prickled as we stepped onto the Quay, and David Bertie in a very James Bond moment produced two well shaken but miraculously unbroken bottles of champagne from his grip bag!  How on earth they survived unscathed is a miracle, and it has to be some of the best champagne I have ever tasted, albeit out of a thermos mug!  Simon's family and parents-in-law appeared, and we all retreated into the local cafe, a disparate group of dishevelled, slightly shellshocked and beaming crew and relieved family.

Popping the first cork on Shamrock Quay
Simon, David Bertie, Charlie Fane-Trefusis, Anthony and Jeff Bartram

At last it was time to make our appearance at the Dry Stack and as we crept around the corner, our full set of Around Britain flags proudly fluttering to the cheer of well-wishers on the pontoon.   I looked across at "Teal" and I could see reflected in Si's face the relief, pride and happiness of finally arriving which must have shown on our own.  He suddenly looked ten years younger,  I hope the same could be said for Anthony and I!  Jo and the boys from Southampton Dry Stack were on the pontoon ready to take our lines, a lovely welcoming gesture, and this monumental journey, which had tried and tested us all in so many ways, was ending. 

"ConTTentment" rounds the corner to home

A family reunited - a relieved looking Si makes his way towards Southampton Dry Stack

The Southampton Dry Stack boys wait to receive our lines on the pontoon - home at last!

So many emotions as we touch the pontoon at Southampton Dry Stack

Anthony does the honours on the hydraulic lift to take our steadfast friend "ConTTentment" out of the water

Tired - but happy! We've done it!

Special thanks to:
All our friends and family who made the effort to come down to Southampton and welcome us home.
Geoff Bartrum, for bringing his RIB out to welcome us home on the water.
Mark Wilkins and Jane Mermod, who brought down two cars to drive shattered (and probably fairly incoherent!) crews back to Vernham Dean.
Southampton Dry Stack for lifting the visiting boat "Teal" from the water and accommodating her last night free of charge.
All those who have followed this blog, supported our charities, worked behind the scenes on our behalf, and sent us their best wishes and encouragement which meant so much along the way.
My cousin, Kingsley Piesse, who provided us with invaluable and extremely reliable hi-tech weather routing and predictions - via Australia!
My father, who, although 12,000 miles away, travelled every nautical mile with me in my heart - my inspiration for this wonderful adventure.

Distance travelled:  101 nautical miles
Time travelling:  4 hours 25 minutes

Average speed:  13.5 knots
Total trip:  2,109.7 nautical miles

We Have Arrived in Southampton

A great reception as we arrived wet in Southampton today.
Only mistake is we are now home but have left the computer in Southampton.
So with a little patience the final blog will be posted on Thursday

We are all catching up on some sleep now !

DAY TWENTY-SIX - RYE TO BRIGHTON

"Teal" and "ConTTentment" high and dry on the mud at Rye

We all enjoyed a leisurely start this morning, and took a taxi into Rye to check the boats and spend the morning being tourists.  Poor "Teal" and "ConTTentment" looked rather dejected lying like abandoned toys in the mud.  However, they had been moored with plenty of length on the lines and were absolutely fine, so we were able to rest easy and venture out to explore.
It was a lovely day in Rye, cooler than previous days, but with plenty of sunshine, and we enjoyed wandering the maze of cobbled streets lined with an intriguing mixture of medieval and Georgian buildings.  With its winding lanes and proximity to the sea via its meandering river it was easy to see the attraction of Rye to smugglers and criminals centuries ago.  


Gerald Dodson explored a link to Rye's past which led us to the Town Hall to be privately shown the remains of a murderer whose body was hung in a gibbet on the marsh as a warning to others.  Fortunately our connection was a lot more recent and less ghoulish, in the shape of Anthony's parents who had travelled over from Pluckley to welcome us with a delicious lunch!    It felt strange to actually have time to kill for a change, as the only sadness of this amazing trip has been that we have had such a limited amount of time to relax and explore.

The beautiful cobbled streets of Rye

All dressed up and no-where to go - we wait for the tide that
will allow us to make our way to Brighton

In fact, we ended up with rather more time on our hands than anticipated!  Having been informed that the tide would have risen enough for us to depart about 2.00pm, no way was there enough water for us to take our leave, and in fact we were unable to get away much before 3.30pm.
Once we had crept down the river back to the open sea, having gently wound its way out, the river suddenly straightens towards the outlet to the sea, lined with a regimental guard of honour of marker buoys in a dead straight line.  The effect is very similar to being on an airport runway, straight and deliciously smooth, I was tempted to "take off" but stuck to the 6 knot limit (well....nearly!), but we could all see in the distance the tell-tale flick of white horses' tails which told us a spirited ride was around the corner.  Quickly donning our helmets, we were not altogether surprised when we were met with the reality of what had been forecast away from the protection of the river - a good Force 5, maybe 6, pretty much on the nose, made for challenging driving, and poor Gerald was very much thrown in (not literally, thank goodness!) at the deep end.

We battled our way around the coast, and just off Beachy Head the sea was actually quite big.  I felt we were clawing our way up some of the waves, hanging on precariously on the vertical before heaving over onto the downward side.  Desperately I tried to remember what we had been taught about driving up the face of the waves, and throttling back to come down the other side, but sometimes the next ghastly wall of water faced you before you had a chance to push the throttle forward again and you were caught in the bottom of one huge wave with another looming over you.  Coupled with the fact that you were rounding a headland, which obviously requires a certain amount of distance, and the  alarming presence of lobster pots thrown into this maelstrom for good measure, it made for an unnerving mix.
Having made it through, it was then a gruesome battering ride into Brighton Marina, the beauty of the sunset seemed rather ironic, offset by the unrelenting, uncomfortable and unforgiving sea - nature at her most lovely and most confrontational all in the same moment of time.
I kept thinking back to the days of incredibly calm seas we have just had - it was as if we had been given the chance to stroke a particularly beautiful tame tiger, who had lain back and enjoyed our solicitous attention, before becoming rather bored of our fussing, and had started to quietly growl and show her claws.  The sea was again reminding us of her incredible power, and we were being reminded in no uncertain terms to have some respect!
Arriving at Brighton Marina, one is immediately embraced with the efficiency and modernity of a thoroughly 21st century marina.  The relief at making landfall was doubled at the sight of David Bertie meeting us on the quay, and tripled by the sight of Charlie Fane-Trefusis at supper!  These previous members of the Take Two RIBs adventure have made it to Brighton to join us on the final leg, and it is a real boost to morale to have them with us for the final run.  Gerald Dodson has left us at Brighton, - a wise man, going on the forecast which doesn't make for happy reading.  We are going to have to earn our stripes on the homeward leg, and hence the 5.15am alarm call from the hotel!  Ouch!
Our teacher and mentor Bob Elliott from Quality Time phoned tonight to wish us well on our homeward run - and we logged his advice to start early and get into port before the worst of the winds start to build later in the day.  It was lovely to know he has been following our progress, and as neither of us had the first idea how to drive a RIB before we undertook our course with him in June, he has a lot to answer for!!
We are planning to arrive at Southampton Dry Stack tomorrow afternoon at 2.30pm.  It is hard to believe that this fantastic chapter is coming to a close.

Distance travelled:  42.7 nautical miles
Time travelling:  3 hours 5 minutes
Average speed:  13.7 knots
Total trip:  2,089 nautical miles

DAY TWENTY-FIVE - LONDON TO RYE

It was an early awakening this morning, and down to the boats in the semi-gloom to be ready for the lock opening at 7.00am.  Our hotel overlooked the Tower Bridge, which looked strangely surreal in the morning light.

Once away and into the Thames, it was a magical run downriver, with the lipstick slash of a sunrise just appearing, and the odd silhouettes of London appearing on the banks either side.  Yesterday's arrival into London was fascinating, but in the early morning light we were able to appreciate the London landmarks again without the pressure of waterway traffic to distract us, and it was a magical experience to whistle down the Thames at 25 knots in almost perfect stillness, whilst the city of London came to busy life above us.  The bridges were bumper to bumper with dinky-sized cars, bustling to get on with their day, whilst we glided past below.

Morning traffic over the Queen Elizabeth Bridge

"Teal" glides across the sea

We enjoyed the flat calmness of previous days, skirting around the wind farm with a respectful distance this time, and making our way towards Ramsgate for a late breakfast.
Known as Royal Ramsgate since this title was bestowed upon it by King George IV, and hence the only royal harbour in the UK, Ramsgate proved a pleasant surprise, and we refuelled the boat and enjoyed a hearty breakfast at the fisherman's cafe before heading out again towards our final destination of Rye.

Coming into Ramsgate

Quite rightly Anthony advised full wet weather gear on leaving Ramsgate, as we knew the wind was picking up all day, and we were very appreciative of our oilskins and helmets as we met the dreaded head-on seas again off Dungeness power station, which built up into a lumpy sea with a good Force 5 off Margate and into the Dover Straits.   On board "ConTTentment" we really appreciated having Gerald Dodson as the extra crewman on board, and being able to rotate the helming every half hour on a three-way rota.

Refuelling at Ramsgate

Once through the Straits, conditions improved slightly and we were able to pick up speed again for the final run into Rye.  Suddenly a motorboat roared across to see us, and we were informed that we were crossing the live shooting range, and needed to be at least 3 miles out to sea!  A quick detour seaward followed, before rejoining our original course.

The white cliffs of Dover

The final run into Rye was an exhilerating ride with the waves slightly on the beam, and the two-man helm coming into play!  The entrance up river was a step back in time, with a long line of fishing boats lining one side of the entrance with fishermen sorting their nets in the afternoon sunshine, and the abandoned hulks of rotting boats, the wrecks of broken dreams on the other.  We weaved and wound our way upriver past a myriad of moored boats, eventually arriving at the visitors quay, right in the heart of Rye.  We are lucky enough to be staying with friends of Si and Sarah's, Charlotte and Dermott Flood, at Wittersham, and have a late start tomorrow as we need to wait for the outward tide before departing, so we are all looking forward to a leisurely morning exploring this delightful looking town.

Distance travelled:  121 nautical miles
Time travelling:  6 hours 6 minutes
Average speed:  19.9 knots
Total trip:  2,047 nautical miles

DAY TWENTY-FOUR - BRIGHTLINGSEA TO ST KATHERINE'S DOCK, LONDON

We thoroughly enjoyed our re-union with Lucy and Dick Browning last night, staying on their beautiful farm near Colchester.  Dick kindly drove down to Brightlingsea to pick us up, and on getting out of the car at his home the reality of being either at sea or on the coast for nearly a month hit me - the smell of warm earth and vegetation was so strong, it made me realise my nostrils have had nothing but salt air!  It was a delicious scent and suddenly you are so attuned to things which would have gone completely unnoticed a month ago.  It wasn't the demanding and insistent caw of seagulls that woke me this morning, but the more gentle cooing of pidgeons, and as I lay listening my thoughts were drawn more and more towards home, so very near now.

Brightlingsea Marina when we departed at low tide

Paddy and Sarah James joined Si today for the final few legs to Southampton, and we were lucky enough to inherit Si's crewmember Guy on "ConTTentment" for the day before he disembarked in London.   The two boats did their Torvill and Dean impersonation across an ice smooth sea as we left the Blackwater Estuary behind us and headed towards London.

Brightlingsea

"ConTTentment" gliding on ice with Guy Berncastle at the helm

I had noticed in the days previously how strangely lifeless the North Sea feels in comparison to the other coasts we have seen on this trip, with comparatively little bird-life and boat activity offshore.  No longer the plunging gannets, darting terns and those cumbersome comedians of the sea the Guillemots, which had kept us company on so many long days previously.  This lack of life has added to the strange eery atmosphere created by the dead-still seas and the ghostly palour of the land, always just out of focus behind the mist.
Today was no exception.  Another day of very little wind made for ideal conditions, and we made excellent progress - out of context figures surrounded by a Turner landscape.

"Teal" comes through the Thames Barrier

Familiar sights from a different perspective - Tower Bridge

It was a fascinating experience to arrive in London from the sea, experiencing the change from light industrial to heavily recreational in the space of a couple of hours!  At Gravesend, we picked up friends Camilla and Shamus Henderson, who happened to be in London this weekend, and were joining us for the trip up the Thames.  Thanks to the kindness of Mike Ramsey of the Gravesend Rowing Club, we were able to scoop them up off the rowing club pontoon with a lowish tide, but with the minimum of fuss.

London at play on a sunny afternoon

With the unseasonally warm weather, the Thames was a torrent of activity, with ferries, motor boats of all sizes, RIBs,  paddle steamers, sailboats and kayaks a mere hint at what this arterial river had meant in centuries previous.   I was struck at the beauty from the river perspective of otherwise familiar landmarks, and realised that much of what we were seeing was designed to be seen from what was one of the main routes into London, the Thames.  What I had thought were fairly unremarkable bridges, in fact sported beautiful sculptures not at all visible from the the land above, but designed purely to impress the incoming visitor on the water.  Not such a happy sight awaited those travelling to the Tower!

Not the way to enter the Tower if you planned on coming out again!

"Postcard" views of London, whichever way you looked

"ConTTentment" outside the Houses of Parliament

For the first time on our Round Britain trip we were afforded the luxury of being real "tourists", not having to worry about sea conditions, navigation or schedules, but just able to enjoy what we were seeing and experiencing simply for the sake of it.

At  Battersea "ConTTentment" picked up our next crew member, Gerald Dodson, who is joining us until Brighton, and who had sweetly arrived with a bottle of chilled champagne to celebrate our arrival in London!  After a toast very decidedly to "the journey so far" as not to tempt fate, we headed back downriver to our mooring for the night at St Katherine's Dock.  Suddenly the likes of Stonehaven and Dunbar harbours seemed a different world as we joined the queue into the lock.  London was putting away its toys for the night, which created a scene very different from the fishing boats and utility vessels we had been rubbing shoulders with recently.
We have an early start tomorrow, with the lock re-opening at 7.00am, and a long passage ahead to the Cinque port of Rye.

Distance travelled: 75.2 nautical miles
Time travelling:  4 hours 33 minutes
Average speed:  16.5 knots

Total trip: 1,926 nautical miles

DAY TWENTY-THREE - WELLS-NEXT-THE-SEA TO BRIGHTLINGSEA

Southwold at play

After a very good night in Wells-Next-the-Sea we woke up this morning to find the very pretty town buzzing with the anticipation of a summer's day - on 1st October!  We had to virtually punt our way up the river the night before, but the sight that met us when we made our way down to the boats was completely different at high water.  The local swimming club was finishing an early morning swim, the quay-side was humming with activity, and people were heading out to enjoy the beach with temperatures forecast in the high twenties.

A cousin-in-law of Si's, Kit Mordaunt, who lives nearby, arrived to help ferry the fuel cans to the local garage for re-fuelling, which was a fantastic help, as fuel stops in the next few days are critical.

Kit Mordaunt helps us get underway at Wells

We made our way down the river, enjoying the warmth of the sun in shirtsleeves and shorts, and saw the population of Wells at play on the very typically English beach, complete with colourful beach huts.  For the second day running, we were met with a silken smooth sea, and the two boats left thin white slashes across the immaculate surface, like skating blades across the ice.  The only downside of these perfect conditions was that the warm weather again brought in a sea-mist which kept the coast hidden behind a veil of secrecy all day.

"ConTTentment" disappears into the mist leaving Wells-Next-the -Sea

Suddenly two fins broke the pristine surface, and we circled to watch to tiny Harbour Dolphin, who, notoriously shy and not at all like their more playful Common and Bottlenose cousins, showed themselves only briefly.

Southwold

We were making our way to Southwold as a good half way point for a break, and it was relief to make our way in towards the land and enjoy some scenery!  Southwold was fascinating, with the shoreline lined with fisherman's huts and boats, and again the local population making good use of the fantastic weather.  As we busied ourselves tying up alongside, great friends Melissa and Tom Seppings suddenly appeared in their Norfolk punt, complete with their yellow labrador on board, embarking upriver for a picnic.  What a coincidence to run into friends in a tiny inlet in Norfolk!

We just had time to snatch a quick drink and a chat at the local pub, before we were back on the boats and away to make our deadline, the fuel barge at Bradwell Marina, near Brightlingsea, a tactical and critical fuel stop which closed at 5.00pm.

Melissa joins us onboard "ConTTentment" 

Again, we were able to enjoy ideal conditions, albeit without any views!  Finally the boredom of "motorway driving" became too much, and we decided to do time trials mid-ocean!!  Cranking "ConTTentment" up to 42 knots was a brief highlight in the afternoon!
We made our way into Bradwell Marina, making the 5.00pm deadline for fuel with just minutes to spare, and then on to Brightlingsea over the other side of the Blackwater Estuary where we were being reunited with Lucy and Dick Browning, who had joined us on the Glasson to Crinan leg, and who farm just outside Colchester.
Tomorrow we are heading towards London, with the "Teal" crew now joined by Sarah and Paddy James, and "ConTTentment" picking up Camilla and Shamus Henderson at Gravesend and Gerald Dodson at Westminster.  

Distance travelled:  133 nautical miles
Time travelling: 5 hours 45 minutes
Average speed:  23.2 knots
Total trip:  1,844 nautical miles