DAY FOUR - FOWEY TO PENZANCE

Fowey - deceptively tranquil the morning after the night before!

The lovely Quay House Hotel 

We spent a very comfortable night at the Quay House Hotel in Fowey, and felt refreshed having had a good afternoon and night off the boats, with time to re-group, dry out the oilskins, catch up on emails and check equipment.  Fowey is absolutely charming, lots of meandering streets and very pretty views, reminding Anthony and I of sections of the Amalfi coast.  The UK clearly has so many treasures, many of which we take forgranted.

The headlines that greeted me outside the hotel

Poor girl had a bad night! what remained of
ConTTentment's stern line

However, I discovered this morning that appearances can be deceptive! We made contact with the Harbour Master first thing to discover that a mini tornedo had ripped through the harbour in the night, sinking at least 12 boats, with many boats still missing, including a 32ft cruiser, lost without trace!  Despite a clearly hectic morning, the Harbour Master waived the usual mooring fees to aid our charities - so a huge thank you to Fowey Harbour Authority.  Special thanks also to Terry and Linda Phillips of "Amazon 3" who were moored alongside "Teal" and kindly donated to her charities.  The generosity of people we have met along the route so far is hugely appreciated.  When the Fowey water taxi delivered us to "ConTTentment" moored alongside a pontoon on the other side of the river, we were heartily relieved to see her!  However, she had clearly had a rough night, as was evidenced by her shredded mooring rope - her stern line was literally holding on by a thread!

With renewed respect for the forces of nature we headed out of Fowey, knowing we had today only to make the most of the last of the decent weather before "Katia" hits the UK coastline.  Si was joined by a new crew member for the day, Lindsay  Hall, a very keen and accomplished sailor who was about to get her first taste of power boating!

Heading out of the harbour and bearing west towards Falmouth we were quickly hit with a hearty southerly and a choppy sea.  However we made good progress and averaged a respectable 15kts , reaching Falmouth Harbour in 1hr 20 minutes to refuel, with petrol as well as coffee!  Checking the forecast again, we decided not too hang around in Falmouth as the winds were forecast at 24kts and rapidly freshening.  It was with a mixture of excitement and butterflies that we left the familiar and comforting territory of Falmouth and the Carrick Roads behind us and headed to the infamous "Lizard", where we knew conditions would be trying - our first serious test on the journey so far.

The wind was actually whistling past our helmets as we rounded Pendennis Point, however the sea state was actually surprisingly manageable around the Manacles.  We passed by Coverack and Cadgwith, both places visited during our annual summer holiday in Cornwall, but in very different conditions.  Finally the "Lizard" came into view, and I began to wonder what would be in store.  Si James had plotted a course close inland to stay out of the tidal race and make the use of the little protection offered by the headland, which was absolutely the right call and gave us a comfortable approach, although we could see a good rolling swell further out on the port side.  Once past the lighthouse, (where for obvious reasons the video needed to come to an abrupt end!), the "Lizard" showed us why it has a reputation for being one of the least hospitable parts of the UK coastline.  It was an angry sea that battered against the land, and we had a serious swell with waves 3-4 metres in height, with winds a good Force 6.  Both boats kept a watchful eye on each other, and I am happy to say performed immaculately in the worst sea conditions I have encountered so far.  "ConTTentment"  came into her own, with her big heavy hull giving her the support she needed to push her way through.  None the less, it was an experience that required total concentration.  Waves regularly broke over the boat, and out of the corner of my eye I could see the huge swells approaching - there is nothing like the sea to remind you how truly tiny and insignificant you are.  It was definitely a case of "eyes front" - just focus on what lay ahead and deal with each wave as it came.   Things were complicated further with "overfalls" - the sea state where tide and wind meet each other headlong and cause an effect like two waves crashing together from opposite directions and breaking.

"Teal" is dwarfed by St Michael's Mount - heading towards Newlyn

Finally St Michael's Mount came into view, as we skiddered across Mounts Bay towards Newlyn, and then settled into Newlyn harbour, looking very frivolous amongst the much more workman-like fishing fleet.  This will be home for the next few days as we sit out the weather, and hope that we can be on our way once more by Wednesday, once "Katia" has done her worst.  We will spare a thought and prayer for all those still at sea.

Fowey to Falmouth:
Distance travelled:  21.6 nautical miles
Time travelling:  1 hr 22 minutes
Average speed:  15.7 knots
Fuel consumption:  31.5 litres
Fuel purchase price at Falmouth:  84.92 litres A @ 180p/litre

Falmouth to Newlyn:
Distance travelled:  36.5 nautical miles
Time travelling:  2 hrs 25 minutes
Average speed:  15.1 knots
Fuel consumption:  ConTTentment 51 litres, Teal 39 litres