DAY FIFTEEN - WHALELESS AND WATERLOGGED! TOBERMORY TO PORTREE

We were off to a slow start this morning with complications loading the Garmin with the plotted course which involved retreating into a dry spot and reloading the route from the computer.  It was late morning before we set off into the gloom with quite limited visibility.  As we left the Sound of Mull we were quickly into a good Force 5 wind with the sea on our nose.  No chance to get back into it gently!  However, once we rounded the corner and headed in a more northerly direction, the wind was on our port beam and the rolling waves making for a much easier ride.  We had decided to head across from Ardnamurchan Point towards Eigg, one of the small islands of the Inner Hebrides (population 90!), where we had hoped to stop for a break, and enjoyed a good surfing ride with the sea on our stern all the way.  However, upon entering Eigg we could see that the inner harbour was very shallow with a very narrow entrance, and the outer harbour was not offering much protection from the wind and rain, so we decided to push on to Rum where according to our chart there was a very sheltered bay.  Rum was the first place to be used for the re-introduction of the Sea Eagle and is now owned by Scottish National Heritage.  We took advantage of the Visitor shelter for a much needed cup of tea out of the rain.

Time for tea ...... and midges.

Teal and ConTTentment moored up alongside at Rum

A happy David having helmed a tobagganing ride in the Sound of Sleat

The midges made sure we didn't overstay our welcome, and we headed off once again to re-join our original route closer to the  mainland and heading up the Sound of Sleat.  David enjoyed a fast and furious ride with the sea on the beam and then on the stern, and we steamed up the Sound making a good 22-25 knots.  It was frustrating to see just tiny glimpses of what is undoubtedly a stunning coastline, with conditions remaining frustratingly murky.  Not only was I not going to see my longed for whale - it looked like I wasn't going to see much of Scotland today either!

Determined to remain elusive - the  Scottish coastline veiled in mist

Passing under the Skye Bridge meant we were not far from our destination, and we finally arrived at Portree, all of us admitting to feeling a little jaded and frustrated that the beauty of this longed for section of the trip had slightly eluded us.  However, there is always another day!  Refuelling is going to become more of an issue as we proceed further north, but we met with a pleasant surprise in Portree when a very kind local gentleman offered to drive the boys in his car to the local petrol station for fuel. The tanks and spare jerries are now full to capacity which is a good situation to be in.  The passage around Cape Wrath is now looking like a real possibility in the next few days.  My Australian cousin Kingsley and I skyped last night and he is keeping a close eye on conditions, which could be in our favour on Sunday/Monday.  I am beginning to feel that once we have rounded the Cape, we will be half way around, and hopefully weather conditions on the east coast will be a little more favourable.

Approaching Portree and pleased to call it a day

Distance travelled: 85 nautical miles
Time travelling: 5 hours 50 minutes
Average speed: 16.7 knots
Total trip: 1049 nautical miles