DAY FOURTEEN - CRINAN TO TOBERMORY

Location, location, location - the Crinan Hotel has it in spades

We all loved our stay at the Crinan Hotel, which had a slight feeling of faded grandeur - but was very comfortable and had delicious food and wonderful art on the walls by local artist Frances Macdonald.  We set off this morning for Tobermory, with a route planned that would take us to Port Appin for a lunch stop (luxury! - not the usual tea and biscuit bobbing on the boat), and then on to Tobermory.  Having watched from the hotel window the sea conditions changing constantly throughout the morning, it was no surprise to find that very shortly into our journey we were encountering a good rough chop, with the added interest of some rip tides off the small islands as we moved away from Crinan.  It was a very wet ride, with waves breaking regularly into the boat on the starboard side, but we were still able to appreciate the majesty of the scenery, and the abundant and varied bird life.  My absolute favourites are the guillemonts, who, with their busy-body penguin appearance and low-loaded bomber flying technique, seem the most inelegant of seabirds.  With their stumpy little wings flapping furiously to get themselves out of our way, they eventually resort to diving, which is the only time they look at all suited to their environment. 

The scenery around us was an ever changing palette of colours - from moody greens on the lower lying ground, graduating to aubergine and rust, with splashes of apple green on the sunlit hill tops.  We passed the occasional moss covered ruined castle, barely discernable from the landscape surrounding it, as if, after hundreds of years, nature was reclaiming the rough-hewn stone and rocks as her own.

Atmospheric and ancient - the Scottish landscape is full of history

We were able to wend our way amongst tiny islands, until we came to an opening between two small islands leading out into a very ominous looking sea beyond.  Sure enough, as we left the sanctuary of the protected waters, the sea quickly became very rough and we fought our way headlong into some big waves off the island of Seil, before rounding the corner to have the sea behind us and experiencing the most exhilerating "Malibu moments" surfing down one biggish wave after another, being held in suspended animation on the crest, before being swept down again on the fall with the throttle at the ready to pick us up onto the crest of the next oncoming wave.  

 

We skeetered and surfed our way into the Firth of Lorn, and with pulses racing, came into the Sound of Kerrara and on into Oban Bay.  

After a quick "fly by" past Oban, we headed out into Loch Linnhe.  The tell-tale tapping on the top of my helmet was the only indication I had that it was raining, as I was constantly getting a visor-full of water and couldn't tell which was rainwater and which was sea!  It was a very wet ride up the Loch towards Port Appin, where we arrived at the Pier Hotel for some lunch and some very unnerved looks from fellow diners!  We must have created quite a sight - five bodies in dripping oilskins, faces glowing, wide-eyed and wild-haired and still buzzing from our tussle with the elements! 

The Pier Hotel - Port Appin

We came out from the restaurant, warmed and replete with a delicious lunch of Cullen Skunk washed down with Whiskey Mac!  The sun was shining, and we set off on the final leg of our journey towards Tobermory.  The land towered above us on our starboard side as we made our way up the Sound of Mull .  The recent heavy rains have caused huge waterfalls which were cascading down from above.  In one tiny bay we stopped the boats and turned off the engines to appreciate the beauty and majesty of this wonderful sight, with the sound of crashing water from the waterfalls above as the accompanying soundtrack.

As we progressed up the Sound, the sea flattened out a little, and we were able to make good speed towards our overnight stop.   We were arriving almost at high water and so were able to take the short route into the harbour and Tobermory to be greeted by the wonderful sight of the many different coloured houses lining the harbour.  

Teal taking the short route into Tobermory

Tobermory

Tobermory is an enchanting place, and I am looking forward to a chance to explore in the morning.  I am also very excited by the news that there have been recent sightings nearby of Minke whales and basking sharks.  Having ticked the Common Dolphin, Bottlenose Dolphin and Harbour Porpoise off my wish list of "must sees", I would be ecstatic if we came across these other species as well.  Another look at the charts tonight to plan our passage.  Cape Wrath lurks in the back of everyone's minds - do we or don't we - so much relies on the weather and timing is of the essence.

Distance travelled:  64.7 nautical miles

Time travelling: 4 hours 22 minutes

Average speed: 14.8 knots

Total trip:  964 nautical miles