Wednesday 28 September 2011

DAY TWENTY - STONEHAVEN TO DUNBAR - WHAT A DIFFERENCE A DAY MAKES!

A new day dawns over Stonehaven Harbour


After our gruelling day yesterday, we really needed a stroke of luck today, and as we left Stonehaven Harbour, my heart sank as the conditions we met were choppy and horribly familiar.  The fishing boat we moored alongside overnight had asked we be away at 9.15am so he could leave to go fishing, but on arriving at the harbour we discovered he was no longer going out, having had an update on the weather and deciding conditions were going to be too choppy - definitely not what we wanted to hear!
However, after the initial heart-sinking moment on first exiting the harbour, conditions improved rapidly.  The wind had definitely died down, and the sea was becoming calmer by the minute.  Spirits were lifting on board as we began to sense the potential for an easy day ahead, and what was even better, the sun was shining and we were being treated to a rare day of blue skies.
Flat calm and fabulous - the "Teal" team pause to appreciate the perfect conditions -
not something any of us are accustomed to!

The impressive East Lothian coastline
The East Lothian coastline looked impressive, the red cliffs and green fields contrasting against a mirror like blue sea.  It was such a relief to be travelling minus helmets and be able to appreciate the beauty of our environment rather than being so focused on forging our way in tricky conditions.   We pulled into Arbroath for a break, and for the first time in a very long while started peeling off the layers of clothing and applying the suncream!
From Abroath we made the last run towards our final destination of Dunbar.  Occasionally we had a little choppiness to deal with, but  nothing that required particular attention.  Crossing the Firth of Forth and cruising past the Isle of May on the way into Dunbar we were admiring the old lighthouse on the hill, when we saw a rib moored up inside a tiny inlet.
Moored up on the Isle of May
The Isle of May

The temptation proved irresistible and we nudged our way through a tiny opening in the rocks to be met by a representative of Scottish National Heritage, who is based on the island during the summer months doing research on nesting birds and wildlife.  We were treated to a very informative potted history of the island, and invited to make our way ashore to explore.  Apparently the island plays host to literally thousands of seals during the autumn months for the mating season, as well as many species of nesting birds in the summer.   There are now no permanent residents, but the Island was the site of a priory during the Middle Ages, the ruins of which are still visible. 
The proof is in the photograph! Si takes on the North Sea
The castellated lighthouse on the Isle of May built in 1816
We all enjoyed a very happy half hour walking around the island enjoying the fantastic views, and relishing the sensation of feeling rather hot!  So much so that Si took to the North Sea for a swim!  As hard as it was we needed to leave the island behind us and head on to Dunbar, barely 20 minutes away across the Firth.  There was a slight chop but nothing to worry about, and we made good speed, ironing out the bumps at a good 25 knots.  We had shed our oilskins at the islands, and the sensation of a warm wind of oilskin free legs was a very welcome novelty! 
Feeling content aboard "ConTTentment" - the sun is shining!

The entrance to Dunbar Harbour is brilliantly concealed and from a distance is looks unassailable, until you get up close and realise there is a tiny entrance into this enchanting harbour.  Once again, the Harbour Master along with the local coxswain of the RNLI were an enormous help, ferrying the boys in their landrover to the local petrol station to refill the jerry cans.  People wandered about this beautiful little harbour in their summer clothes and shirtsleeves, and with the Round Britain flags flying, the two RIBs attracted their fair share of interest, including the curiousity of the local pet seal, who greeted us hopefully, looking for a fish handout.  Apparently he will take the fish from your hands, but sadly we arrived empty handed!
The Scottish flag flies proudly above Dunbar Harbour
Distance travelled:  66.3 nautical miles
Time travelling:  3 hours 55 minutes
Average speed:  16.9 knots
Total trip:  1,460 nautical miles












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